25th March 2018
Abu Dhabi Airport
7.30 pm.
And finally, we are going to Spain!! Spain has been on our list even from before we had kids. I guess after watching ‘Vicky Christina Barcelona”, all I wanted was to go to Barcelona and get intoxicated on Spanish wine, listening to the Spanish guitar, dreamily biting into pickled olives…and just getting carried away “like a dandelion, in a windswept story” (I just quoted myself! woo hoo!)
But Oh well, we are with these two over energetic boys. So, no chance of getting that perfect romantic evening that leaves you with a touched, overwhelmed and high on life feeling, that I recall from our previous trips. But like I keep reminding myself, let’s look at the larger picture.
We had two flights to catch. Abu Dhabi to Istanbul. Then Istanbul to Barcelona. The boys were super excited. They got some amazing toys in the flight. I was calm. Kris and I had agreed on a deal. I sit with the boys on the return journey while he sits with them on the onward journey when I get to relax and watch movies. Works perfectly for me! I can already start dreaming…
Aeropuerto de Barcelona
The flights did not seem too long at all. We reached Barcelona in the morning. We took a city bus from the airport to reach Plaça de Catalunya. The hotel was conveniently located and correctly chosen by Kris. He loves to do all the hotel bookings, which turns out pretty good for us. I am in-charge of the places to visit while he takes care of the bookings and the maps.
We changed at the hotel, got ready for the day. It was quite chilly. In fact, it was super cold. We first bought a metro card. It’s a very convenient card and could be used for the three of us. Abhiir being under four, goes free.
By afternoon, we walked to the famous La Rambla pedestrian street. It is a nice tree-lined street with cafes and shops packed with tourists. We walked around the Gothic quarter soaking up the spirit of the place, munching on chorizo(sausages) with my favourite Sangria. It was a good introduction to Barcelona.
27 March
Sagrada Família
11.00 pm
Our first stop was of course the famous La Sagrada Família, the large unfinished Roman Catholic church in Barcelona, designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí . Ah! What a structure!
What takes one’s breath away is probably the fact that it is so huge, with the spires almost touching the sky. Perhaps the real beauty lies in the highly ornate facades and the large round enchanting windows, almost straight out of a fairy tale. Or perhaps it is the warm stone beige intricacy, against a lofty blue spring sky, that just brings out the splendor.
The construction of Sagrada Família started under architect Francisco de Paula del Villar. When Villar resigned, Gaudí took over as chief architect, transforming the project with his architectural and engineering style, combining Gothic and curvilinear Art Nouveau forms. Gaudí devoted the remainder of his life to the project, and at the time of his death less than a quarter of the project was complete! You can see the difference between the old and the new construction. I always happen to like the old.
Must admit, I do not like to see an architectural wonder braced by unsightly scaffolding. But underneath the bracings, is one strong structure that makes a statement. You cannot miss this.
We roamed around the structure in the golden sunshine. Everyone around was taking selfies. The plazas were full of tourists bursting out of tourist buses. It was a very lively beginning to our Gaudi exploration.
Casa Milà
1.30 pm
We walked all the way from Sagrada Família towards Casa Milà, on the way to see another Gaudi-like structure, Casa Terradas, which is not designed by Gaudi. Casa Terradas is almost like a large Gothic castle with intricate balconies and tall conical roof spires (hence nicknamed as the House of Spikes) I quite liked the structure.
Next was Casa Milà, popularly known as La Pedrera or "The stone quarry" as a reference to its unconventional rough-hewn appearance. Its like a harmonious mass of undulating stone. Its like an icing cake in stone with intricate wrought iron decorations! It is by far my favourite Gaudi structure. I remember sketching the façade in my history journal back in architecture college days. These structures brought back memories of those dating-days, immersed in the history of architecture. Kris and I, both especially loved the use of delicate metal works juxtaposed against the stone fabric.
Right opposite to Casa Milà was another wonderful Gaudi structure, Casa Batlló, considered one of the masterpieces of Gaudi, and rightly so. A remodel of a previously built house, it is also called Casa dels ossos (House of Bones), as it has a visceral, skeletal organic quality. The ground floor has unusual tracery, irregular oval windows and flowing sculpted stone work. There are few straight lines, and much of the façade is decorated with a colorful mosaic made of broken ceramic tiles (trencadís). The roof is arched and seems like the back of a dragon or dinosaur. Overall, it has that awesome dreamy fairytale like quality that all Gaudi structures have. We got totally immersed in this non-straight stone-mosaic wonderland like no other building ever seen before! Even the boys appreciated this different kind of architecture that they got a chance to view and appreciate.
Continuing with this artistic imagery, next was Park Güell, a public park composed of gardens and architectonic elements. Park Güell is the reflection of Gaudí's organically best, natural artistic style. He combines creative liberty and an imaginative, ornamental creation with new structural solutions rooted in the analysis of geometry. All structures look like those out of a fairytale. The use of stone is incredible. One cannot get enough of Gaudi.
We concluded the ‘Gaudiesque’ evening with paella by the sidewalk, looking at surrounding artistic, brick-clad apartments with Sangria to accompany…
28th March
Montserrat
We took the morning train to go to the Montserrat station. Further up the cable car, we reached this mountain-top town with amazing structures built within the stone mass. From far, it looked like a rock-cut city. There were sun-filled plazas surrounded by frames to capture the splendid views of mountains and cliffs around. There was an intricate church with rock strewn figurines and cool courtyards.We spent the entire day in this town and took the last cable car downslope to catch the last (and the most crowded) train back to Catalunya.
29th March
Camp Nou
This day was reserved for the visit to the ‘Camp Nou’ Barcelona Football stadium, much fantasized by the boys. I agreed to be their photographer for the day. We had booked the tickets beforehand. It was our first experience, viewing a famous football stadium. There was a museum, dedicated to Messi, full of team photographs, trophies and the golden shoe! We followed the enthusiastic crowds. The field itself was magnificent, with 360 degree viewing stands and an oval piece of the crisp blue sky over the fresh green rectangle. It is the largest stadium in Spain and in Europe and the third largest in the world! Abhiir wore his ‘Messi T-shirt’. This stadium trip was his 3rd birthday surprise. Since Arhaant is born in the football season of 2010, every four years, his birthday falls in the football season. This was his eighth birthday treat.
We spent half a day at the stadium and by evening, we went to see the Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art. It was a large white modern building with a glazed southern elevation, providing views across the plaza, and allowing for an abundance of natural light to illuminate the interior galleries. The campus however had slightly suspicious surroundings. We could sense the undercurrents of strange activities that could be going on in the secret hideaways of this campus. The surrounding stone walls gave a rustic ambience to the place. The area in front of the museum is known among skateboarders to be one of the most iconic "spots" for the sport in the world. We watched the students skate boarding in the plaza. That was quite a spectacular show.
We strolled by the seemingly dangerous lanes towards an ‘Istanbul Kebab House’, where we enjoyed some amazing kebabs and bread to conclude the long day. It was an evening to remember.
30 March
Barcelona to Bilbao
We took the early morning train from Barcelona to Bilbao. We reached Bilbao around 2pm. The hotel was located within walking distance from the one and only Guggenheim. It was an extremely windy day.
We walked along the riverside promenade, across Calatrava’s amazing pedestrian bridge towards Frank Gehry’s titanium and limestone “ship”, shimmering in the sun rays reflecting from the grey sky dome. Was it the dramatic grey-orange sky or the crazily cold winds…but something about that evening seemed eerily magical! The Guggenheim seemed like an extraterrestrial creature inviting us to walk willingly into its art-filled belly. Every curve, every twist and turn of this built mass had indescribable beauty. We just kept walking in trance, filling our eyes with every unique exhibit, enjoying walking around every artistic creation, becoming students of architecture again. Surprisingly, our young boys too got immersed in the beauty of the Guggenheim and accepted this art tour whole-heartedly. By late eve, we completed our museum trek and were drop-dead hungry. After a refreshing snack at the café, we were as good as new to begin our tour again outdoors. Its always nice to have daylight even until 9pm, that allows us to ‘see more and look on forever’.
Rightly, the Guggenheim is the most admired works of contemporary architecture, equally loved by critics, academicians and general public. One can witness the popularity of the Guggenheim and how it has transformed the city into a tourist attraction.
Just outside the Guggenheim is an incredibly large sculpture in bronze and stainless steel - “Maman” that has giant white marble eggs. It compliments the building so beautifully. Each curve catches light and contributes to the beauty of the masterpiece. By night, the canvas was painted in black and gold. It rendered another mood to the overall landscape. With the silvery waters below and the gold-lined Guggenheim against the dark night sky, it was a memory to preserve forever.
We saw Easter processions on our way back, as we walked almost intoxicated on architecture. Hot chicken biryani was a pleasant surprise, that Kris packed for us from an Indian restaurant in the lane next to the hotel.
We wrapped up the action-packed day with some family photos in the awesome suite.
31st March
Bilbao to Madrid
Hurriedly we gobbled up the breakfast with Spanish omlette, tortilla de patatas and muffins to catch the 9.30 train to Madrid. After a good 6 -7 hours, we reached Madrid by evening. The highlight was to see Arhaant draw curvy ‘Gaudiesque’ buildings in his sketch book all through the train journey. This was the effect I was waiting for!
Our chosen hotel – The Jardin Metropolitan was in the Quatro Caminos neighbourhood (translated in my head as four rascals ;) That evening, we walked to the famous Puerta del Sol (Spanish for "Gate of the Sun") a public square in Madrid and one of the best known and busiest places in the city. At a quaint little café, the favourite chorizo, Tapas and Sangria kept us warm as the night grew cold.
Arhaant found a pair of beautiful keys on the street. Kris and I used one each as a pendant for our chains as a lucky souvenir from Madrid.
1st April
Segovia
Next morning, we went to the airport to catch the airport shuttle bus that took us to Hotel Centaur, from where we rented a car for the next two days. All this detour was for the good deal they gave us ;)
The drive to Segovia was a picturesque one along winding country roads, lofty clouds on happy blue skies with a view of snow-capped mountain peaks far away on the horizon. We listened to the local Spanish music on the radio and got completely immersed in the spirit of the place.
We reached the beautiful beige-brown hill-top city of Segovia by noon. The city is famous for its historic buildings including the three main landmarks: its midtown Roman aqueduct, its cathedral (one of the last Gothic to be built in Europe), and the castle(Alcazar Segovia), which was an influence for Walt Disney's Cinderella Castle. The Spanish word Alcázar derives from the Arabic word "al-qaṣr " meaning the fort, castle, or palace. The aqueduct of Segovia has a dramatic presence in the center of a dense urban fabric. It is because of its long span, architectural beauty, uncharacteristic slenderness and is rightly the most impressive Roman structure in Spain.
The city center of Segovia was declared World Heritage by the Unesco. We stopped for a chorizo pizza and sangria at the cobbled town square to see the world go by. The place was packed with tourists and a golden sunshine peeked from behind the golden-lined structures.
We strolled around these wonderful buildings. There were cute little souvenir shops and we bought wooden swords for the boys. Everyone around seemed to be ‘high’ on life. We roamed around till almost 9 pm and the orange light of dusk still lingered on the darkening sky. What a beautiful excursion it had been.
We arrived back to Madrid by late night. Kris was glad to find a free parking spot along the street right opposite to our hotel.
2nd April
Cuenca
We started a little late this last morning in Madrid. After a laid-back breakfast we drove by to the city of Cuenca which is famous for the ‘Hanging houses’ or the Casas Colgadas, which is a complex of houses located in Cuenca, built over a rock above the Huecar River gorge in the 15th century. This type of building was common in this city a long time ago.
The Hanging Houses have a restaurant and the Museum of Abstract Arts and they serve as the background of millions of photos made from the bridge of San Pablo.
Today, there are only a few of them remaining. Of all these structures, the most well-known is the one with a group of three with wooden balconies.
We walked along the quaint hill paths, upslope alongside ice cream shops and cafes. There were neat town squares amid cobbled, sloped streetscapes lined by tall stone walls with ornate lights. At the end of the lane, stood the beautiful Cuenca Cathedral. The receding arches and rose windows looked so neatly carved into the stone structure! It was a perfectly colour coordinated charming setting.
We finished our Cuenca exploration by night and drove back with eyes filled with memories. It was our last evening in Spain.
3rd April
Madrid Barajas Airport
Madrid – Istanbul - Abu Dhabi
The return journey always seems long. At Istanbul Airport,we had to run from one side of the building to the other to catch the correct gate. It was quite a marathon! But then we watched movies back to back, intoxicated on the images of the newly visited country. Spain is officially ticked off the list ;) though I would love to visit Seville and Valencia in future.
Travel Tips for Spain:
- Since it’s a large country, one cannot cover all parts within a short trip. We concentrated on ‘all things Gaudi’ at Barcelona. Four days should be enough for Barcelona. Those pressed for time can avoid Montserrat totally and give more time for viewing Gaudi structures.
- The Guggenheim, Bilbao tops my list for Spain travel. The structure is a definite No-miss. Two nights, two and a half days should give proper justice to the place.
- For those interested in day trips from Madrid, Segovia was my personal favourite. Driving down is the best option to view the beauty of the countryside.
- There are more than one wow-moments in Spain. The best ones would definitely be viewing Casa Batlló, Casa Milà, Guggenheim and La Sagrada Família . I cannot really decide which one is my most favourite!
- All the above experiences wouldn’t have been as extraordinary without the addition of Tapas and Sangria :) Hasta La Vista España!