Sri Lanka

April 2014

For International day at my son’s school, his class got Sri Lanka as the country of celebration. And this exercise became the reason for our recent trip to Sri Lanka in the spring break.

Most friends and relatives ask us why we end up travelling as a family and not as a bunch of friends . My answer to them is that I feel if a certain place has lots to offer,you don’t really need company to enjoy it. In fact the dramatic effect of a place on a traveller is diluted if he is a part of a group , the members of which, at most times are not deeply interested in doing the same things. If friends are willing to join in, well and good. But if not, we are fine on our own. My husband and I have a similar taste in architecture and we like to travel in a certain style ,which after a few trips has become the most comfortable way of life. Our  duties have been divided thoughtfully and most importantly, besides my own self,I trust nobody else but my husband when it comes to travel photography. Our  son has blended into this pattern slowly  and has understood the perks that come with travel.

5^th April , 5.30 am 
Kalamba

“Ayubowan”said the smiling ladies at the airport , wearing the Sri Lankan version of the sari, with no pleats but a fancy frill at the waist. Early in the morning, at the same time as the sun, we reached Kalamba (Colombo) from Dubai.  Hanifa was waiting for us. We had pre booked him to drive us around the country according to our self tailored itinerary. In Sri Lanka, the most convenient way of travelling around is to hire a car with a driver. Public transport is time consuming and not very well developed and driving by yourself is quite risky (according to most travel sites )

9.30 am 
Pinnewala Elephant Farm, Kalamba to Kandy

Ary was fast asleep in the car because of the overnight plane journey. We woke him up to a sight of about twenty elephants in a large open  field.They were having their leafy breakfast with occasional sips of water. The tiny ones were sipping milk from bottles. Ary was overjoyed and bright eyed in an instant. We followed the elephants down to the river for their bath. It was a wonderful setting with rocky mountains in the background and large and small elephants cooling off in the water. Some old ones were lying down completely immersed in water. I would have loved to do that myself!

Later that noon we drove to Kandy to get recharged at the hotel. The country roads seemed to be exactly like those in Kerala. Very green. However at Kerala, we seldom get a chance to explore the countryside as the only thing on the agenda is to meet relatives! Hence this was my opportunity to fulfill that wish.

Aroma Inn Café hotel was conveniently located within the city centre but we were not too happy with the hotel rooms and service in general. The breakfast was not satisfactory at all and we ended up eating at nearby dosa diners. So in short, this hotel is not recommended for families but might be okay for single travellers or big groups.

4.00 pm 

Temple of Tooth, Kandy

By early evening , after a good shower and lunch, we were all ready to walk to the famous Temple of the sacred Tooth relic , by the large Kandy lake, constructed by Sri Wickrama Rajasingha, the last Kandyan King.The lake is a sanctuary for ducks, tortoises , fish and water snakes, which are fed by the temple visitors. The enormous crowds at the temple premises reminded us of our life in India. Same evening markets, same shouting flower sellers, and the same sea of people rushing to some important places all the time,having absolutely no inclination to sit and relax.

The biggest difference, compared to travelling in Europe is that the days are too short in this part of the world. One can enjoy the evening only till 6 o clock when the sun sets, whereas in Europe in summers, we used to be out till 9.30 pm and it used to be still bright! So one needs to plan out the day activities in advance.

The temple had a nice colonnaded , sloping roofed hall and a water channel all around. It had an old timber roofed structure and painted carvings. An enormous bell was hanging outside along a chamber of countless lamps. Frangipani and pink lotus seem to be the best choice of offerings for Buddhists.

There were many Buddha statues in varied meditative poses, each one unique. There is a certain calmth about Buddhism I feel. Not too rigid but so peaceful.

Skirt-blouse seems to be a common dress code for all Sri Lankan women. Only the middle aged ones were wearing the Sri Lankan sari.

The temple campus by sundown was lightly golden as we sat under the almond trees. There is just something very serene about this place, I cannot pinpoint. Ary was in his over friendly mood and wanted to strike conversations with strangers, especially with a bunch of school girls that seemed to like him too.

As the day blended into a cooler night, we were inside the theatre next to the temple for a Kandyan dance performance. It was very similar to south Indian dances but was a bit less intricate than the Bharatnatyam. The costumes and the twirling drummers were the highlight for me. Other interesting concepts were of the tea pickers dance and the peacock dance.

Kris and I were totally immersed into the show and forgot to notice that Ary had fallen asleep on my lap amidst all that noise and heat! Actually we had not caught up on our sleep that noon. Arhaant was exhausted.

We wrapped up the day with some hot masala dosas and curd rice from the restaurant next door to our hotel. It was a long day. Arhaant had not eaten well, but this was a routine I am well accustomed to. He catches up on his sleep first and hunger , the next day.

 6^th April

Kandy to Dambulla

We woke up well slept and ready for the next adventure. However breakfast at the hotel was not fulfilling . We wanted to eat traditional Sri Lankan breakfast but all they had was omlettes and sausages to suit the European tourists that visit Sri Lanka in large numbers.

We decided that for the next few days we would ask for a traditional breakfast beforehand. The Sri Lankans are more than happy if you are interested in their food.

11.30 pm 

Heritance Kandalama

By early noon we reached the most awaited Heritance Kandalama resort by the famous architect Geoffrey Bawa. We had skipped the usual botanical gardens and some other places in Kandy only to make room for our architectural visits and it was totally worth it.

Kandalama province is a picturesque site. The resort itself is as though carved out from a rocky mountain. Some rocks merge into the built mass while landscape flows along the terraces , making this piece of art a true seamless blend of architecture, nature and landscape. This is exactly the kind of architecture Kris and I totally love.We tend to get crazily driven and maddeningly immersed into such forms that we cannot stop clicking pictures in every possible angle.

We decided to explore the natural landscape around the resort on an elephant back. The river flowed through a framework of green mountains and woods. It was an ecosystem undisturbed. The architecture so perfectly crafted seemed to just fit into the scenery. The greatest achievement of an architect or a landscaper, I believe, is to create something without taking away any charm from the surroundings.

The elephant’s name was Monika. It was her bath time anyway and she willingly carried us through the waters into the jungle.  Chaminda was a loving mahout and seemed to know of Monika’s likes and moods. We had an amazing time strolling on elephant back past birds and trees , lofty clouds dotted on a baby blue sky and far in the mountains  was the famous Sigiriya rock fortress, the royal citadel. We had to leave Sigiriya out of our itinerary as it would have been a rather difficult trek for Arhaant.

It was a comfortable ride and Ary was most happy to go through the water sitting atop an elephant!

After the ride, we explored the resort in further detail. The infinity pool caught a piece of the sky and the lotus ponds at a higher level continued the sky mirror till the horizon. It places like these that give you a high and then you don’t need anything else or anyone else, otherwise that subtle connection established with the place might get lost…

By noon we were on our way to see the Dambulla caves. We stopped for a nice home cooked traditional Sri Lankan meal at a local house that offered food to tourists. The meal consisted of rice and few bowls of vegetables --- spinach, dal, lotus flower , radish and drumstick. Dal and rice is always the safest option especially for Arhaant. Kris seemed to have an instant south Indian connection with the drumstick curry and boiled rice with pappadam and pickles to accompany.

3.30 pm 
Artisan’s village

We took a halt at the artisans village where the local artists make traditional Sri Lankan masks and other carved wooden items. There we cozy thatch roofed huts , shaded mud paths and tree bark stools and tables at courtyards. We bought a traditional fire mask and a few other hermit masks at a good price. A good addition to our mask collection!

5.00 pm
Dambulla caves

At a golden baked evening hour we reached Dambulla caves. The temple at the foothills had a large demon head with an open jaw! It was too ugly and too loud for our taste. We skipped that and went straight up climbing about 50 stone steps to reach the caves that had large reclining Buddha statues, Stupas and several Buddha statues in a blessing pose. The rock cut roof of the caves was painted intricately in rustic warm colours and floral patterns. These caves are definitely worth a visit. Arhaant completed the trek easily without any crankiness and we realized that he too has turned into a travel addict like us ;)

The purple skies were framed by delicate dancing branches of frangipani trees. Arhaant and I instantly started collecting the lovely white and yellow flowers. He loves these flowers and is man enough, rather innocent enough to admit it ;)  There was a small lotus pond outside the caves with lovely purple lotuses in perfect symmetry. If I get lotuses and frangipanis on an orange evening like this one, I can turn into a saint! It was so calm and peaceful. I think its in the flowers and the reclining Buddha pose , where all this spirituality flows out from. I am thinking of embracing Buddhism.

By dinner time , we were back to Kandy. The highlight of the evening was that it was the India- Sri Lanka T20 finals and we were the only ones in the hotel cheering for India in Sri lanka! They won the match.

7^th April
Nuwara Eliya

9.00 am

We left Kandy a little late after breakfast . Next on the itinerary was Nuwara Eliya, a typical English hillstation, situated on the highest mountain in Sri Lanka, called Piduruthalagala.  After a two hour drive , first through the busy towns and then through winding mountain roads picking up cool air at every curve of the road , we reached the foothills of Nuwara Eliya. The mountains wore a green tea carpet and it instantly reminded me of Munnar, another similar hill station in Kerala.

Sri Lanka does seems to offer a variety of experiences to a traveler in a limited drive.

We stopped for tea tasting at a tea factory on the way. The women working there explained the different types of teas, the blends, the powder, the leaves. We had some awesome fresh black tea with chocolate cake on a terrace overlooking the valley. It was a nice experience.

By noon we reached Hotel Glendower and it had started raining! Oh this is what we were waiting for.

The hotel was decent. It was converted from an old colonial British style villa . The garden around had a variety of bright roses and zinnias alongside the lawn. The interiors were cozy wooden with country style soft furnishings. The tavern bar was nicely tucked in a corner with barrel seats and a wooden stair that took one to the attic.  The structure itself was really good but the renovation could have been done in an artistic way, I feel. It lacked those final touches that make a lasting impact. Maybe its just the architect in me , picking on little things…or maybe after living in the UAE for many years, our expectations have gone higher. In Europe , what a traveler gets for Bed and Breakfast value is something absolutely neat and clean. Whereas in Sri Lanka (and in India) for a three star value, one does not necessarily get an absolutely clean and up to the mark experience. This is my general conclusion.

Out with umbrellas and jackets, we strolled out . Ary just wanted to jump in the street water, something that we all enjoy in the rains. We found a nice Indian restaurant  on the corner of the street , with the perfect rainy day menu and those nostalgic aromas floating in the air.The corner glass windows caught the rhythm of the raindrops and a hot South Indian Thali with sizzling Rasam added to the monsoon magic. 

By evening , we wandered along the Gregory lake which had cycling tracks and walking path around it. The fresh mountain air enveloped by clouds carried a medley of aromas. We played ‘jump over puddles’  as we walked. Far beyond, we saw some horses in the grass. Lining the streets were many a cozy street food places selling noodles or samosas. This is just what you need in the rains.

Later we went to the market place in a tuk tuk and bought some roadside snacks and fruits. It was still raining. We stopped for some noodles and soup dinner as we walked back from the tungsten lit market.

The hotel was warm. Arhaant was watching a cartoon sprawled on the sofa in the waiting area which was like a living room  and we snuggled by the fireplace with a drink.Wish someone played the guitar…

8^th April
Nuwara Eliya to Mirissa

9.30 am

After breakfast and a photo session we left for Mirissa. Everywhere in Sri Lanka, there is a guest house reserved for cab drivers that come with tourists. It a well set up system with profits extracted from larger tourist groups from Europe and the Far East ;)

We stopped by the Sita temple at Ashoka Vatika along the river where Sita was held hostage by Ravan . It’s the place from where Hanuman rescued Sita. Legends confirm the presence of Hanuman’s footprints on the river stones. The temple was a peaceful place with no crowds. There were large statues of Ram, Lakshmman and Sita . I took this opportunity to explain the Ramayan stories to Arhaant and he seemed to be interested. Its moments like these that take you back to your roots. I have always wondered if people from Sri Lanka worship Ravan and consider Lord Ram as the villain and if their religious scripts have a reversed version of the Ramayan! Well, but lets not digress into sensitive issues. I consider myself more spiritual than religious. And even though I am not a very religious person, I respect the fact that I was born in a Hindu family and married into a Hindu family. Hence I must pass on the flame to my son. However I do not want to force any religiousness into him as it is not something we choose but what we inherit.  I want him to respect all religions as his school friends come from different backgrounds.

Later on the way we stopped to see the Ravan Ella (waterfall) amidst tall green mountains and lots of monkeys.

We had lunch at a roadside local home that offered food. This one was not particularly worth mentioning. I don’t really like the non vegetarian dishes cooked in Sri Lankan style. They are too oily and too spicy. Kris doesn’t seem to mind as long as they have mountains of boiled rice. But he wasn’t happy with the food as well. Ary and I stuck to dal and rice with papaddam.

By sunset , we reached the Mandara Resort in Mirissa. The sky was romantically framed by tall coconut trees. The pool was so irresistibly inviting . From the lobby one could catch a glimpse of the pool water and the sea beyond through the branches of frangipanis. Kris, Ary and I could not control ourselves. We simply changed and dived in.

The sky was turning pale and our mood, more pensive. A dim moon hung amid dark coconut fronds and we could see bats flying across the moonlight showing off their perfect silhouettes. Ary thought , his favourite Batman had come to visit us! Soon the pool starlights were on and it was as if we were floating in the night sky. This is life! This is what we earn for…

The highlight of the evening was to have a candle lit bath under the stars! The room had a private, open to sky bathroom by a private pool surrounded by tall stone walls and frangipanis. It was like having a pool in the backyard . To me, this was the best treat so far --- an eerie moonlit shower  with some singing crickets , a fragrant breeze and the sound of the sea beyond to accompany!

Dinner was curry and rice, Sri Lankan style. But this meal was outstanding. The best food we have had thus far. The Mandara resort is way above our expectations and definitely on my much recommended list.

9^th April 
Mirissa

6.30 am

I woke up at 5.30am to make sure we would be ready on time for our much anticipated whale watching expedition early in the morning from Mirissa harbour. Getting up at this time on regular school days is so tiring, but if you have something exciting to look forward to, I can wake up even at midnight.

We almost dressed Ary while he was sleeping and carried him half asleep to the harbour. The hotel had very sweetly packed some sandwiches and juice for us for breakfast. The boat was small and cozy. I had goose bumps with excitement boiling inside. The first rays of the sun hit the coconut palm tops and then the colourful line up of fishing boats.  The boatmen were geared up to start. We were a part of a small group of tourists, some Japanese, some British, some German. Arhaant was the tiniest whale explorer who had actually come to spot a mermaid!

It was windy and the boat was bumping through waves. We used to get an occasional splash from the sides. If the boat is small, the ride gets all the more bumpy. Many people were getting sea sick. The boatmen were distributing barf bags to all! I was fine , but looking at others, I started getting that sea weedy feeling in my tummy. Arhaant was soon asleep and I thought of grabbing a nap too.

The sleep and wind work like magic and no one was sea sick anymore! We were heading to the whale spot about two hours away from the shore. The skies filtered sun beams and the rough sea held the enthusiastic boats in a rhythm. And Ah ! There! We saw one big splash. Ooh that was a green whale.

And then after that , we saw about three to four whales. Kris captured them into the camera very cleverly. One of us takes care of the camera when the other takes care of our boy. I was dying to see the whale tail splash, but whatever we got to experience was totally worth it. Whale watching is quite different than dolphin watching. Dolphins seem to be more friendly . But of course, whales are HUGE! It was an amazing feeling to see such large grey – black bodies in the waters. Whale watching is much like sighting shooting stars. If you are lucky, you get to see the show in that split second. Then its gone with the wind!

After about an hour of visual fishing, we headed back to the shore. Arhaant and Kris went upstairs to the deck and relaxed, while I grabbed the spot at the tip of the boat to enjoy the bumpy windy ride with the wave drops hitting my face in full speed! Oh this was the best “me time”I got to enjoy. Sitting at the tip makes you feel as if you are driving the boat and fighting the waves , diving into the horizon. Nobody was around to take a picture for memory, but this experience will stay in my mind forever.

The ride, the views, the ambience, the spirit and of course, the treat of whale splashes on your face …overall was the best experience of the trip . A definite ‘must do’. I am glad Arhaant has the spirit and enthusiasm to enjoy things like these, leaving aside sleep and hunger. He is so adjusting. I must say, just like his Baba! And I have learnt the same from Kris as well.

1.30pm  

Mirissa market

We bought some street food from the market on our way back. Some onion fritters, rice and a very spicy potato stir fry. It was delicious but too spicy. Ary and I had to combine it with pasta and sandwiches from the hotel. After that, we jumped into the private pool of our suite . It was in the backyard, lined with stepping stones and one elegant frangipani tree. With some juice for Ary and “lion beer” for us, we just indulged and immersed in the water world of our own, jumping and splashing and then relaxing in the famous reclined Buddha pose ;)

I was treated to a long 1.5 hour Ayurvedic massage after that while the boys had their own fun. I owe you big time Kris!

By sunset we strolled by the beach. There were some amazing cliff views on the side where the ocean formed a delta as it met the river. The shores were fringed with tropical plantation, a clear difference from the bare white beaches of the desert island, we came from. Ary practiced his drawings and alphabet on sand after which  he “chopped” the waves. 

We just got completely lost to the beauty of the waters , the beach and the dramatic skies above. This is just the place to be. It has been a satisfying long day.

Mandara resort tops my list. The food is of great quality and reasonably priced. The room layout is exceptional, with the highlight of a private outdoor pool and bath. The room itself was split in two levels --- lower for the sitting space and a bit higher for the bed. The fully open able glass doors by the bed opened out to the private pool on one side and the beach on the other!   The stucco plastered walls added to the earthy charm of the place with the perfectly windy weather ,picturesque blue skies and warm ocean to compliment. 

10^th April 
Mirissa - Hikaduwa, via Bentota, Galle to Kalamba

6.30 am

I got up early to enjoy the ocean and the sky in the early hours. This is something I like to do alone… Like a secret life before my boys wake up! The musical waves, Cuckoos coo-ing in the almond trees, squirrels in the frangipanis and crows kaa - ing from the tall coconut palms --- these sounds remind me of summer vacations in childhood, when the only things on the agenda were eating mangoes and going for a swim.  Champa trees and cuckoos are the two things that instantly transport me to our ancestral stone house in India. I guess, this is the victory of the architect who designed the resort. To create a beautiful setting that reminds the user of beautiful memories and to provide ample opportunities to get carried away!

We had a good Sri Lankan breakfast of Idiappam, daal and coconut sambol ( similar to chutney). Kris was super happy with his kind of food ;)

We passed by the ‘mangroovy’ beaches of Hikaduwa, Bentota where we caught a glimpse of the famous stilt fishermen. They sure look pretty perched atop those sticks but you have to pay them to take a picture!  Well, the Sri Lankans love their tips…

11.00 am

Next on the itinerary was the Turtles conservation project. The aim of this voluntary organization was to protect the turtle eggs from the tribals and to let them hatch. There were tanks full of one day old turtle babies , to be let out into the ocean soon.  Arhaant enjoyed holding the tiny turtles. One was allowed to touch only the baby turtles and that too just for a while. I am quite against people touching and holding and troubling animals in this way, like they do in zoos, reptile parks and dolphinariums of Dubai! This place wasn’t anything like those commercialized profit making rackets. The care taker seemed genuinely concerned about the conservation project .

We saw many types of turtles with amazing patterns on their bodies. Ary was more interested in touching the cute little cat lazing in the sun!

En route , we saw the Galle fort and a mask museum at Ambalangoda. The museum was quite interesting. I used to wonder why the Sri Lankan masks are always so scary demon faced. They are actually  used to warn people against the evils of drunkenness and disease! The fire mask is said to bring prosperity.

1.30 pm 

Lunuganga Estate

Visiting Geoffrey Bawa’s holiday home at the Lunuganga estate was the most awaited excursion on the list for today. It was a large property with tall old trees and endless lotus ponds. It had the surprise elements of English gardens and vistas to catch a glimpse of water bodies from various seating places.The air smelled of earth , of leaves , of frangipani flowers, of freshness!

 Architect Geoffrey Bawa had a fetish for bells , frangipanis and water views. And he has created the best place on earth for himself to get lost in trance of design immersion.  Looking at the beautiful built masses with large glass openings and interesting nooks that provided many opportunities to enjoy the place in different ways just makes you think of the importance of “your space” as a designer. It was like a sanctuary , almost like a temple where you go and revisit the creator in your own self!

Kris and I were totally blown away by the Lunuganga estate. This is something each dedicated architect works towards in his lifetime. A self designed space you can call your home…your work shop…your studio, your dream house! We just seemed to know that similar thoughts were crossing our minds! We were silent , but our minds were talking to each other. Of dreams . Of spaces. Of light . Of the highest purpose of life. We exchanged smiles but knew, our touched heavy hearts were weeping inside…  Its places like these that just make you silently overwhelmed. There is magic woven into spaces; aspirations built in walls and possibilities reflecting off glass openings. We are so glad to have seen this place. It was enough to awaken my inner instincts towards following my dreams.

And I am happy, Arhaant just finds his own positive distractions at places like these. He was busy collecting flowers and sticks. He probably respects his parents love for spaces. Lets hope this continues.

We met some architecture students at Lunuganga and we exchanged our interests for similar spaces. One of them told us to go and visit the “Blue Water” resort by Geoffrey Bawa , which was on our way to Kalamba.   We decided to go immediately , having whatever  street food was available on the way, such as weird looking deep fried skin on fish!!!

5.00 pm 

Blue Water Resort

Blue water was a structure that echoed the Geoffrey Bawa style of architecture. The elements of coconut palms on lawn, box windows, airy corridors, rubble masonry, frangipanis and water bodies weaving through them all made us understand his sense of space. The fresh green of the lawn juxtaposed against the clean blue of the water , reflecting the sky is the simple but perfect blend that spells relaxation. We roamed around the place, exploring the elements, hopping on stepping stones, lying on the grass pyramids, listening to the calm water body and the whispering winds that established a connection between the built mass, landscape and the sea.  The sunset hour oozed tropical beauty and we were in love with this kind of architecture. We captured as much as we could into pictures, but the experience stays close to our hearts.

7.30 pm Kalamba

By nightfall, we reached the Kalamba sea shore. Kalamba or Colombo is a big city. Similar to Mumbai and a little like Bangalore . The sea front had big hotel buildings . The sea side promenade was very clean and had a variety of street food stalls. Many families had come to spend the evening there. We grabbed some food at an Indian place after which we had to reach the airport. Unfortunately, there was no time for clothes shopping at Colombo, which is famous for branded factory seconds.  Well, being in the UAE has reduced my excitement for clothes shopping anywhere else! Or have I just become a little less materialistic ;)

10.30 pm Colombo Airport

We thanked Hanifa, our driver for the trip, who very patiently took us wherever we asked him to. Nice guy. We had about an hour to shop at the duty free. I got some small elephants to go in my collection and some souvenirs for friends. We also bought a bottle of the Sri Lankan Arrack with coconut flavour. This kind of shopping to finish off all the currency of that place is very interesting indeed ! I love the journey back home, counting the good times and reliving them. But of course I feel sad , that the trip is over. I guess I enjoy the planning part so much that by the end of it I feel as if a chapter from my story has ended!

However my mind was diverted this time at the airport as Ary found a new friend. She was about 5-6 years old and her parents seemed to be nowhere in sight. She played with Ary the whole time and even joined us for coffee…to the point where I thought she was lost or something! She said she was going to Baghdad. Finally after the announcement of her flight, she went away with a group of ladies wearing Hijab. All my thoughts about the trip were lost to the awe I felt about meeting such people at the airport. In that odd hour Arhaant made a friend from Baghdad who he will never see again… Its heart warming to realize how total strangers make a guest appearance in the movie of our life!