Exploring Jordan

 08 May 2009

6.00 am

Sharjah Airport Cafe

We have finally started our much awaited expedition to the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan with an over ambitious itinerary. Waiting at Sharjah airport, killing time at the moment --- a good occasion though to start my travel journal. We left Abu Dhabi at 3 am, too early for a Friday morning; too late for a Thursday night, complaining about the freezing temperatures in the bus and glaring street lights through stinky translucent bus curtains. I reassured myself, the fun part is yet to start.However the best moment of all was when angry, sleepy Kris shoved the bus curtain right into the air conditioning outlet to block the cold!

1.00pm

Amman City

We reached Amman by noon. The ride from Queen Aalia airport was long but interesting--- good enough to get a feel of the place through the taxi window. Much greener ,much cooler than the Emirates…my mind confirmed. Since the Pope (or Baba Vatican, as the locals were saying it!) was visiting Amman the same day same time, large crowds had gathered outside the airport to greet him. We in turn got a grand welcome! Amman seems to be a small hilly town, much unlike typical capital cities.

After freshening up at our hotel Commodore, we decided to take a stroll, searching for a place to lunch. We had heard about  Jordanian snack joints called ‘Abu Jbaras’, scattered all around the country, known for the best Hummos,Falafel and Shawarma. But unluckily, because it was a Friday noon, they would open only by evening. So we settled for some good roadside Arabic food and were recharged to start a city tour on our own.

4.45 pm

Amman Amphitheatre

The weather is pleasant; with lofty clouds up in the sky. I can see some kites flying.Sandy beige stone silhouettes mark the skyline of Amman. There are neatly stacked uniform coloured houses on the terraces. I can compare Amman to any medium sized Indian hill station (reminds me of Kodaikanal) - its disorderly traffic without any specific pattern, its narrow roads and people loafing around with nothing much to do except welcoming the tourists that are mostly planning to go to Petra from there. Lot of coniferous trees though.For a May in the Middle East, the weather is surprisingly cool; with the sun playing hide n seek at the Roman amphitheatre, here amidst the hustle bustle of the city centre. It’s nice to come here on a Friday evening like this…for a humble family outing, like the many Jordanians I see here.

Kris and I, like true students of architecture, are sitting on the steps, sketching it out… feels great.

Sketching makes the experience richer by capturing personal interpretations into the visual landscape, in a way photos cannot.

6.20 pm

Citadel

By late noon, we went uphill to see the Citadel. It housed the remains of the roman temple of Hercules and the Umayyad palace…all those sunshine kissed rocks with the backdrop of the uniform hutments, occasionally highlighted by minarets of mosques far behind . We spent some time walking around the roman ruins, getting a feel of the place, as the afternoon sun hung impatiently over the horizon, chasing the evening shadows. We indulged in another round of sketching. Two sketches in a day! That was impressive. On the whole, a good start.

Travel definitely acts as a creative fuel to bring back the lost spirit and accelerate your skills as a designer.

By late evening, we were back in the hotel room, watching the bluish purple skyline from the big glass window. We decided to relax and get some rest for the busy day tomorrow at Jerash.

After dinner, I was feeling like a boa who has swallowed an elephant! There was another treat of Hummos, this time with Mt. Nebo red wine. Kris settled for Arabian style pasta. I remember gorging too much on those fat marinated black olives.In no time, we were fast asleep.

< 09 May 2009 >

7.00 am

My phone alarm rang exactly at 6.00 am as how I had set it… I was ready by 7.00 am so that I could keep half an hour for breakfast. But wait a minute…Kris was still asleep…well aware of the fact that Amman was an hour behind Abu Dhabi in time!...and I was still following my old clock---ready an hour early---incredible to most who know me ;-) I am going to take some time to look out of  the window to see how Amman wakes up …how those orange-mauve skies and black silhouettes turn into a fresh blue and beige.

Looks a bit cloudy this morning.Hope by early noon it gets back to its bright sunny self.

9.00 am

Ajloun

By morning we reached Ajloun to see a castle atop a hill on a winding misty road taking us up there. It was a chilly midsummer feeling with mountains lined with pine trees.

The castle looked honey coloured in the shadows of the clouds,slightly beige when the sun peeked.An old woman helped me collect pine cones , after we had mint tea looking over a cliff.I have always loved the delicate craftsmanship nature shows when it comes to pine cones.

10.20 am

Jerash

By early noon, we were at Jerash to catch the legionaries and gladiators show at the hippodrome. Jerash is known to have the biggest Roman ruins outside Italy. They had recreated the magic of that era quite well, explaining about the legions and their formations and slogans in Latin. Later the gladiators came in. One of them reminded me of our cab driver! ‘ What a profession’, I thought , full time cab driver, part time gladiator!

Later that noon, we took time to get immersed in the beauty of Jerash. The amphitheatre, the huge columns – some with ionic capital some with Corinthian.All the Roman architecture studied in history was flashing in front of my eyes. To some, it might seem like mere debris, but to us architects, it was like walking back in time. Its only here in the Middle East that I have realized the beauty of dry landforms and stony fabrics of architecture---a celebration of  facades.Frozen music.

Stimulus-rich travel builds a storehouse of mental imagery that becomes a creative sourcebook.

4.35 pm

Dead Sea

We were on our way to the Dead sea now, eager to float and relax. It was a lively public beach. We changed into our bathing suits and walked into the sticky salty waters…a bit cold…and Ah! We were floating.

It’s very relaxing; you could go to sleep or read a book whilst in water…

We indulged in the full mud bath , supposed to be really good for the skin. I felt like Cleopatra…who used to protect her beauty that way.We had to wait for the mud mask to dry before we could wash it off again, floating in the Dead Sea. Everyone around was caked in mud…a good way to forget skin colour for a change and be equals.A nice buffet lunch ( don’t ask about the menu ;-) was waiting for us thereafter. Good old Hummos, Labneh, Tabouleh…

We did not know, the best part was yet to come.

Waleed took us through the winding roads cut through the stony mountains at dusk and far at the horizon, we saw a water fall! …with a haze of steam around it. Thought about nothing else, just walked in under the fall. It had a natural steam bath in a cave behind and a warm Jacuzzi in stones.  After the slightly coldish Dead sea, this hot spring – Hammamat Ma’in was soothing. Our underwater camera ,vivitaar ,was definitely showing its worth.

After this pampering evening bath, we were on our way back to Amman city . It looked beautifully lit by night. Far beyond, we could see the lit citadel . Couldn’t stop ourselves from going all the way up again to capture some night shots. All cities wear a dramatic look by night.

<10 May 2009 >

We checked out slightly late from the hotel. The plan was to reach Petra by evening, after visiting some crusader castles along the King’s highway.

We went to Mt. Nebo first. It is a mountain edge from where Moses is said to have looked over Promised land. Promised land is a large valley that connects all the holy places of Jerusalem, Jericho to Jordan valley.

Never thought I would be visiting these  places , which were only heard about vaguely.The serpentine cross stood elegantly , juxtaposed against the valley.It was a pleasant morning, clear blue skies, more pine trees. A good spot to sit and paint or write the whole day.I grabbed a chance to walk into an olive farm with nice big full grown trees. In this aspect, I found Jordan similar to Indian towns with farm lands along country roads.

10.40pm

Madaba

Our next halt was at Madaba, a city known for its Byzantine era mosaics.On the way, we stopped to visit a mosaic factory to actually get to know the process of making mosaics from local stone chips.

The girls working there used chips of stones from Petra, Amman and Madaba , which have unique colours of their own , to create the most beautiful patterns. The chips are glued to a frame on which designs are pre drawn. There was a much elaborate old method and a quicker new method, both good in their own way.

When Kris was viewing a jewellery box, the store owner laughed and said,“That would be the most expensive gift for your wife…you will have to buy lots of jewels  too! “

Karak and Ash Shoabak

By noon, we reached Karak castle. Another exquisite ensemble in sandy beige stone. We saw a lot of large span barrel vaults with skylights. There were some secret crusader passageways underground,somewhat like an eerie crypt.The exploration drew us into architecture from another era. Further up, as the winding road took us through some awesome wind sculptures and abandoned Bedouin huts, we saw Ash Shoabak castle , far atop a mountain, partially lit by the evening sun. A slight chill in the wind now…as the sun was soon going to set.We encountered a Japanese group going to Petra as well. We decided to chat over a shisha at Petra, next day.I soaked up all those castle images and picturesque angles as the Sun streaks came in to complete the structures.By late evening, we could see wadi Musa and the pink Petra mountains far at the horizon.  Wow, its going to be beautiful…

<11 May  2009>

9.30 am
Petra

Right now, we are sitting atop a rock in front of the monastery at Petra,having completed the trek! Took some time to get back to what I call ‘design immersion’… some more sketches and an update to my travel journal again. It definitely helps in combining the cultural experience with the visual impacts of a place, cutting across time.

We started as early as 6.45 am after a hurried breakfast at the Crowne Plaza guest house, too excited to start the journey.We were warned about the steep and tiring climb to reach the final point in the expedition . However I can compare it to any big fort of Maharashtra,of course the scale is a bit larger in this case.Her pretty pinkish brown colour paints the whole mountain range through which the Nabateans carved their rose city of Petra , long back in time.It seems an impossible task to handle such details in architecture at that time and of that huge scale ! The experience was surreal. Can’t believe I am actually sitting in front of this famous façade. Its indeed a unique birthday for me---trekking in those sun kissed ruby mountains of Petra,the 9^th wonder of the world. Just some time ago, we saw the Sinai Rosefinch - a brown Petra coloured bird with a rosy chest. We found out that it is the national bird of Jordan.

Thankfully we were back by late noon, when lazy crowds had started their tour , blocking all the good views.  Met some Bedouins selling artifacts on the way. The journey downhill was nice too with everyone going up asking us how much more to go…

A beer at the cave bar! That’s what was much needed now, after the exhausting trek uphill. We took a quick power nap, gearing to enjoy the “Petra by Night “experience.The Crowne Plaza guest house was of a very good standard. It had a pergola balcony overlooking wadi Musa with its low rise hutments. Sometimes not living with skyscrapers and flyovers feels refreshing. I have always loved small towns , where one bumps into the same people over and over again.There was  a small square with few shops selling hats and souvenirs. There were information kiosks and lots of  tourists spilling out.Everyone could be located at that square by evening with the pigeons.All shops closed by 8.00-8.30, except when there was ‘Petra by Night’.It was a sleepy town, less people, few cafes. Only the tall standing pink mountains to mark the presence of the city.

  

After an early dinner all tourists gathered at the entrance. From the Siq to the Khazneh, the whole path was lit with thousands of candles. The dramatic look at eye level and the natures planetarium above---stars peeking through the midnight hues of the rocks.I actually heard them sing,like a thousand small tinkling bells . It was a “Happy Birthday to me  with 1800 candles !”

The whole gang walked upto the Khazneh and sat amidst the candles as a Bedouin played the rababa. The entire experience was mesmerizing. After that, another Bedouin came out from the Khazneh, playing the flute with a dramatic echoing effect.We walked back with a stoic heart overflowing with melodies and memories.

< 12 May 2009 >

8.45 am

Wadi Rum

Ali was waiting for us in the morning to take us to Aqaba via Wadi Rum.I felt sad , leaving Petra. Most people visit Petra more than once. I gave it another thought.Ali took us through the desert highway this time. We could see glimpses of Jordan in the valleys…a goods train crossed us at a junction. A line of caravans also crossed us on the highway. They were a group of old French couples, touring the middle east, driving the caravans themselves… Park them whenever you want and keep moving from country to country…what a nice way to travel.We met Abdulla, the Bedouin outside wadi Rum (or Wadi Ramm, as it was spelled elsewhere )He had an open jeep. We started the bumpy ride. Desert wasn’t new to us, but this one was surrounded by mountains.Lawrence of Arabia, the film, was shot here. There was even a jebel Lawrence. That’s when I realized Lawrence of Arabia wasn’t a fictitious character!We coaxed Abdulla to take us to some rock bridges. Seeing our enthusiasm, he took us to one. Climbing the rock bridge was the best experience of wadi Rum. It was a surprise seeing the same Japanese group again. Well, Jordan is a small country, easily covered by road in a week.Now we were looking forward to seeing Aqaba and the red sea - a serene contrast from the desert.

7.30pm

Aqaba

Sitting at the Aqaba beach along the red sea. It’s a beautiful sunset. I can see the mountains of Egypt on the other side, across the water along a pale orange sky.On one side, its Saudi Arabia while on the other , its Israel. Right across, lies Egypt.Its extremely windy. Since red sea at Aqaba is land locked on three sides, it forms a funnel like effect and  the winds are uncontrollable.The evening has turned a deeper hue, as far across, on the Israel shore , I see the streetlights turning bright.I am still in an overwhelmed state after the most awesome snorkeling experience  this afternoon. Mohammed and his brother Shisha guided us through this incomparable journey on the water edge. A world above it and a whole new paradise below the sheet of glittering water. Its meditative ..I forget everything amidst these corals and fish swerving through the legs. The most beautiful marine world - silent, yet so full of life.Nothing that I have experienced until now has left me panting, heart pounding and with a jaw wide open.I am speechless, but eyes are filled with sea secrets.I tried to capture much with the underwater camera. But what these eyes have seen and this body has experienced, is beyond compare.

Tomorrow morning, there will be more snorkeling at a different hour of the day. The sea will be warmer, inshallah. Lots more to treasure for a lifetime.

8.45 pm

A hot shower made us as good as new, after that exquisite snorkeling experience and a nice walk on the beach by sunset.The wind is still crazy, The Bedouin moon village has made a special dinner for us in its own humble sweet way - some Hummos, a spicy Tabouleh, and chicken mensaf.Thankfully they did not serve the goat milk soup with mensaf. It makes me want to turn vegetarian.We had fresh watermelon and mint tea after dinner, as the wind almost blew off the thatch roofs over the spill out spaces.This motel is very homely, converted from the diving instructors bungalow. Though the rooms were too small, the snorkeling compensated for everything.Kris and I ended the adventurous day with a few games of snooker by the swimming pool, under the starlit sky.Very relaxing,very romantic.

The crazy wind passes a penetrating chill,
as the world outside calls me back for regrets...
But my eyes wide open, want to see more,
immersed in Red Sea secrets.

<13 May 09>

Queen Aalia airport

Amman

Sitting at the cafeteria at Amman airport, on our way back to the Emarat.Just bought some ‘Mamoul’ sweet from the famous Jordanian Zalatimo, some traditional Jordanian music and Mt Nebo wine.Feels good to have collected so much from a new country…food , culture, music and countless photos.I now long for going back to Abu Dhabi and taking an indulgent tub bath with dead sea salts.Another nice place explored by us.Yet another adventure, comes to an end.The days went so eventful and fast. I recall, earlier this morning,the sweet old man at the Bedouin moon village booked Jett bus tickets for us to come from Aqaba to Amman. I was surprised to see “Slumdog Millionaire” playing in that bus as I gorged on zaatar flavoured chips…I immediately remembered the old man at the antique bazaar at Bursa in Turkey humming “Awara hoon”, as he showed us the oldest records of Raj Kapoor in his collection! Indian movies sure have come a long way.

Jordan does provide a complete holiday experience – adventure, history, leisure all encompassing.One busy crazy week that was.Did no many interesting things – some immersed in history while some breath taking marine wonders.Jordanian people are really friendly and down to earth. They ‘welcome’ you with a big smiling “Ahlan”.The weather is pleasant  and Arabic food is what we have always loved.On the whole, a great cultural exchange happened. Going back with a lot more.

Dealing with holiday blues is going to be a battle for me.Those serene evenings in Petra,the coral laden sea beds of Aqaba - I  will always remember you!And since it was just the two of us, each experience, each memory becomes personal and close to the heart.One week – one country – numerous places – thousand memories.Our exploration to Jordan was filled with fun, excitement, adventure, architecture, art, awe and some exhaustion.A fast paced itinerary, perpetual motion and lots of sketching to convey the visual essence of the place through a uniquely personal angle. Great places, good food, friendly people and a chance to become students of architecture again.

Jordan Travel Tips ::

• The whole of Jordan can be easily covered in detail, in one week. It’s convenient and economical to book  a cab that will take you any and everywhere with on demand stops.
• If you are pressed for time, I recommend Petra, Aqaba, Dead Sea and Jerash, in order of importance. 
• Do not miss 'Petra by night’ experience. It happens only on Monday nights and is totally worth it. Modest clothing and good shoes required especially at Petra.
• Snorkeling at Aqaba is the unsung highlight of Jordan. Choose a hotel that is closer to the Japanese coral reef.
• May is a good time weather wise, though the sea waters were a bit cold.